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Waterloo Guest House (44 High St., tel. 876/965-2278, US$29\47) is really the only option in town. Once the home of English racehorse breeder John Leyden, who made the Waterloo the first building to have electricity in 1893, the amenities seem to have changed little since then. Basic rooms have ceiling fans, double beds or two single beds, and private bath.

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South Shore Guest House Bar & Restaurant (Crane Rd., tel. 876/965-2172) is wedged between the road and the beach with decent basic rooms facing the water (US$21 with fan, no hot water or TV; US$28 with TV, fan, and hot water; US$46 for two double beds, hot water, TV, and air-conditioning). South Shore is owned by Rose Williams.

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Bridge House Inn (14 Crane Rd., tel. 876/965-2361, US$21\26) has 13 basic rooms with either fan or air-conditioning. Private bathrooms have hot water. A restaurant on the property (8 a.m.\10 p.m daily) serves chicken, beef, pork chop, curry goat, and fish (US$3.50\6).

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Port of Call Hotel (136 Crane Rd., tel. 876/965-2360, US$31\36) has a variety of rooms, some with one double bed, others with one double and one single. All rooms have private bathroom with hot water and air-conditioning.

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Parottee Beach Resort (Crane Rd., tel. 876/383-3980) is a no-frills property toward the end of Parottee Point with four two-level buildings that have combinations of two rooms with two single beds or one king-size and two single beds (US$95). One half of the duplex suites can also be rented alone (US$50).

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Idlers' Rest Beach Hotel (Crane Rd., tel. 876/965-9000, US$100 d), owned by attorney Courtney Hamilton, has spacious and well-decorated rooms with king-size beds and all the amenities (air-conditioning, ceiling fans, cable TV, mosquito nets) on a pleasant and quiet beachfront stretch along the road to Parottee Point.

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Ocean View Restaurant and Resort Cottages (74 Crane Rd., tel. 876/634-4602, U.S. tel. 404/402-3257, njgravity@yahoo.com) owned by Neville Jackson, has a restaurant serving fish tea, vegetable soup, steam/escovitch/brown stew/fried fish, shrimp, conch, lobster, chicken, curry goat, and chow mien.

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Ashton Great House & Hotel (US$75), located just outside Black River along Central Road in Luana, has 22 rooms with hot water and air-conditioning. Meals are cooked to order for guests. The only negative is the dated linoleum floors in baths.

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Northside Jerk Centre (5 North St., tel. 876/965-9855, 8 a.m.\7 p.m daily, US$2.50\5) a.k.a. Alvin's Fish & Jerk Pork Center, serves fried curry, stew, jerk chicken, stew jerk pork, curry goat, and steamed, brown stew, and escovitch fish.

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1290. Tasty Foods

Tasty Foods (2 Market St., tel. 876/634-4027, 8 a.m.\9 p.m Mon.\Sat., US$2.50\7) serves ackee and saltfish, salt mackerel, chicken (stew, fried, baked, and curry), cabbage, callaloo, oxtail, sliced brown stew fish, whole fish, garlic or curry shrimp, and fries. Eulalee Bennett runs the restaurant.

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